"... once great cities whose centers have largely rotted out ..."

(As Joel Rogers put it in The Capital Times on September 17th, 2001,
describing the degeneration of the USA.)

 

Houston is the fourth largest city in the USA. More than being a squirming, overpopulated megalopolis like most other cities of its size, it consists, in fact, of vast acres of suburbia, at times interrupted by equally vast acres of office ground, and crossed by millions of tons of concrete in the form of motorways.  

In general, everything is built to fit cars. For more convenient car access, the city is divided into different districts - museums, theatres, hospitals, and so on. On the three or four lane streets, and on freeways running criss-cross over the city, you can get anywhere you like. (Still, no matter how broad and extensive they are, and no matter how much they are rebuilt, there is always Stau in the rush hours.) 

But one thing is for certain: you don't really go to the center to do shopping. 

A typical parking lot in (Indo-)Chinatown just south of the city center.

Houston's structure can be divided into three parts - center, suburbia, malls.

In suburbia, humans dwell. Many apartment complexes - the one I lived in, for instance - are divided from the street by high fences and gates overlooked by security guards. Even inside these complexes, there is a good assortment of locks on the doors. 
Since everyone is expected to have access to a car, suburbia is divided into blocks where you live, and blocks where you buy stuff, so that you take your car and drive down a few blocks to do your shopping.

But if you'd like to do acquisitions in the type of stores that in normal countries (Whoops! Some eurocentrism seems to have snuck into my lingo!) usually are to be found in the center of the city, such as luxury and specialty stores, you drive off to a mall outside of town - a collection of stores in a complex, along with the usual (fast food-) restaurants, coffee shops and enormous parking lots.

And what is in the center, then?

In the center is the Capital.

Gigantic skyscrapers of glass and steel rise high above the ground. The companies they house are more or less anonymous, but the buildings are enough to show the world an impression of how wealthy and successful they are.
Between the tall buildings narrow one way streets creep forward, repeatedly clogged by the seemingly never ceasing building activity. (The latter can also, by bitter photographers like yours truly, be considered over-active: I once had caught a fine view of the bizarrly neo-gothic building of Bank of America Center, only to discover a week later that my camera had made interesting collages of my pictures (like the background of this page). When returning to the same place for a remake, a building structure that was being erected in front of Bank of America had crept so far up that it blocked most of the view ...)

At least one third of the buildings in the center consists of parking houses for the employees. And to satisfy lunching desires, there is a wide assortment of restaurants and coffee shops. Many of these are, of course, fast food restaurants - the main reason for why 200 000 Americans need hospital treatment every day because of food poisoning related inconvenience (four of them usually die), because the hamburgers not very rarely literally contain shit. (Read Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation to in detail find out, with fear-mixed fascination, how fast food is produced, why it actually tastes good, and, last but not least, how chanceless immigrant workers are virtually killed, only very slowly, by the horrendous conditions at the butcheries producing hamburger meat, and the utter absence of worker's rights, the establishment of which is actively fought against with the meanest of methods by the companies.)

The Enron building gleaming to the right.

Sometimes, while squeezing yourself between all those cars and all that concrete, you will actually encounter something very strange. Patches of earth are covered with grass, bushes and trees, along with some more or less tasteless fountain construction. The case generally is that one or another of the surrounding corporations has ... generously ... provided a few square meters of recreational space for the city's citizens. In these spaces it is, of course, prohibited to litter, walk on the grass, or sleep. Special guards make sure no inappropriate activity has to be reported. 


The Mecom Fountain, with Sam Houston looming in the background. The fountains were probably neither funded by the Middle East International Telecommunications Conference, nor the German satellite communications company by the same name, but perhaps more likely by the metal engineering company from the US? Hmm ... They are all so anonymous ...

Other buildings reflecting in Wells Fargo plaza. Its footprint is actually in the shape of a $ sign ...
This corporate sponsoring of recreation and culture is strikingly common in this part of the world. In the Museum of Fine Arts, for instance, there is a special section of the exhibition, which consists of paintings donated by a selection of big corporations. Houston Museum of Fine Arts. Free entrance on Thursdays - except to the exhibition of Mughal treasures.
Of course, there are fairly large signs saying which corporation has donated which piece. So, apparently the museum visitor is expected to think, "Hmm, Shell Oil Company is into 17th century painting! I think I'll buy some of their stocks ..."

All this is actually rather scary. When you're standing at the bus stop with the rest of the bums who can't afford a car, and gaze up at the palaces of glass and steel, where capitalists deal with sums of money that are so enormous that they are far too abstract for a mere mortal like yourself to grasp, it makes you think. 

What becomes of people who sit up there in the sky, using scam deals to heap up money for themselves; money that could save hundreds of thousands of lives if it were used to, say, provide free contraception, sexual education and AIDS medication in the "developing countries"?  

 

Links to Houston (and some other things):

The Houston Chronicle

Houston: City of Scams
A fine article by BBC financial correspondent Mark Gregory. 
(If it has already been removed by the BBC, then this is a mirror of the article.)

skyscrapers.com - Houston

Texas Gay Rodeo Association

As for the intense heat and humidity, it is quite 
realistically described in J. Grant's FLEM comics ...

 

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NASA's satellite view of Houston. You can see the freeways sprawling ...
NASA's satellite view of Houston. See the freeways sprawling ...