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The 'Paris of the Balkans' is still a very charming place, full of old, dilapidated houses, quite many of them with bullet holes dating from 1989. Small churches provide quiet spaces in the middle of the otherwise loud and busy streets, smelling of car exhaust and pulsating with Balkan pop. |
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that meets the traveler who is coming from the airport in Otopeni are
gigantic billboards with advertisements for various sex clubs in
Bucharest ("I'm waiting for you ..."). While driving towards
the city, you can spot large concrete skeletons here and there, whose
building was begun at some historical point, but never finished. When
entering Bucharest, you will drive by a nice Stalinist skyscraper, the
House of the Media, which Ceausescu built to keep all media in one spot,
easier to control. Further down the road, there is an exact copy of the
Parisian Arc de Triomphe. (The mad traffic around it is likewise an
exact copy of its French counterpart.)
In Bucharest itself, the most famous landmark might be the second largest building of the world - Casa Poporului ('the House of the People' is what its cynical name means). The violence and turmoil of 1989 did
not bring much change to Romania, politically. The governing party PSD,
and virtually all opposition parties, are fractions of one and the same,
originating from the former Party with a big 'P' of the 'Communist'
times. It wouldn't make much difference at all which party would rule,
and politicians are as corrupted as ever. Besides Casa Poporului, the most famous tourist trap might be the former caravan serai Hanul Lui Manuc, dating from Bucharest's Ottoman times. It is still functioning today, although its clientele consists not of caravans, but mostly Bucharest's nouveaux riches, tourists and people who work in fancy environmental projects. It can be fun to go there and disappoint the waitresses by ordering only mineral water, and watching all the cool guys in 'Top Gun' leather jackets, who don't seem to realise how uncool the radio station the restaurant is playing actually is. But why occupy oneself only with these
overexposed places? Bucharest is much more than that. It is full of
secret places, where hardly anyone ever goes. But if
you pay for the exhibition and promise to look at the scary Harry Potter
and Lord of the Rings characters, you can talk the museum people into
letting you climb around in the ruins afterwards. While balancing over
the abysses where the old ceilings have caved in, you can spot quite
interesting things, such as a slightly cubist painting of a red clenched
fist. Where it came from and why it's there no one knows. |
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Those who are residing in the apartment blocks near the building 'Brotherhood among the Peoples' ('Infratirea intre Popoare', also known as 'Infratirea intre picioare', 'Brotherhood between the Legs'), are luckier. The 'Brotherhood among the Peoples' building and these blocks were built by the Soviets, as an act of solidarity and comradeship towards Romania. Residents of Bucharest say that the houses built by the comrades from the East are of infinitely better quality and comfort than any of the apartment blocks built at Ceausescu's orders. |
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The streets of Bucharest are full of furry
dogs running around, but so is Mihai's house (along with the cat Fritz and
two turtles, apparently without name, save for the nickname 'die
Stahlhelme'). The friendly fellows on the left are Tzushka and Picki.
Tzushka is a normally spoiled little doggie, but Picki came to Mihai from
the streets, and has been putting on noticeably more weight since
then.
But now, on towards the Carpathians! oOo____________________o_oOo_o____________________oOo Some Romania links: Revista
Presei - independent Romanian news. (English
version) Finally, a tip for vegan and vegetarian travellers: if you are going somewhere around Easter - go to Romania! There is plenty of food at both shops and restaurants with neither meat nor milk or egg products, which are eaten during the Orthodox Christian fasting ('post' in Romanian). |